How To Cook Duck
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Many cooks are inexplicably afraid of duck and wary of duck recipes. Perhaps its price or the fat it renders when it's cooked is off putting, or the rich, fatty, luxuriant taste isn't something they're used to. The most popular ducks are the Long Island duckling, which is descended from the Imperial Peking duck, which was once reserved for the table of the Emperor, and the Muscovy duck, which has a stronger flavor. The Muscovy is good for roasts, and the Long Island duckling fares a little better if it's cut up.
The most popular parts of the duck are the legs, thighs and the breast, which have the most meat. The Moulard duck is specially bred for its fatty liver, which is consumed as foie gras. It's also prized for the breast, which is called Magret and cooked like steak in some recipes. Ideally, a duck should be bought whole so that the cook can check that its bill and feet are still pliable, and that it has a nice bit of meat on the breast.
Unlike chicken, duck can be served rare in some recipes, especially the breast. Some cooks will roast a duck till the breast is just done, take the duck out of the oven, carve off the legs and return them to the oven till they're fully cooked. Other cooks cut the duck up before it's cooked, then saute the breast and braise the legs.
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